Jack Zimba

A woman rides on a boda-boda in Kampala. JACK ZIMBA Kampala   THE flamboyant crested crane may be Uganda’s national symbol, but it is the sad- and ugly-looking marabou stork that dominates the east African country’s capital, Kampala. The large scavenger bird – also known by its derogatory nickname “undertaker” – can be seen in many open spaces around the city, or perched on streetlight poles observing the chaotic traffic below. And yes, Kampala’s traffic can be crazy as I discovered on my recent visit. I arrived at Entebbe International Airport on May 10 as part of a 13-member team of journalists from Zambia to cover the inauguration of Uganda’s president Yoweri Museveni, who was re-elected last February. And, of course, we had to shadow our own President Lungu, who was among heads of state invited to attend the investiture ceremony. We checked in at the Entebbe Flight Motel, five minutes’ drive from the airport. It was not the nicest of places around, but it

  Refugees seek shelter at Kalemba Hall, St. Ignatius Catholic Church in Lusaka. JACK ZIMBA  EMMANUEL Uwiragire worked hard to rebuild his life after escaping the Rwandan genocide in 1994, which claimed about one million lives. In 2002, he set up a shop in Lusaka’s Zingalume township, which became the family’s only source of income, but he lost all his investment in a violent flash. Recently, a wave of riots and looting spread across several townships of Lusaka like wild fire as enraged residents targeted shops owned by foreigners, mostly Rwandans and Congolese. The riots were triggered by a rumour that some Rwandan shop owners were behind the spate of gruesome murders suspected to be ritual killings in Zingalume, George and Lilanda townships since March 16. In all, seven male bodies were discovered in the three townships with body parts including sexual organs missing. From the last two bodies, the killers harvested the hearts as well. Police have so far arr